we hope you have a pleasant stay, said the SMS I received from a Swedish mobile phone company the minute I walked off the plane. The only small catch was that the plane I had walked off was from Stockholm to Oslo and I had just returned to Norwegian soil after a few days of work and fun in the Swedish capital. Ah well, the Swedes have no reputation to loose among Norwegians when it comes to brainpower, but they do have a lovely capital ... here's the Orpheus Fountain in front of Stockolm's concert hall, close to the central hotel I stayed at (a four star hotel with NO coffee making facilities in the rooms; how do they expect you to wake up in the morning?):